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Using Steam for Propulsion
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Subject Topic: outdoor hot water wood furnace Post ReplyPost New Topic
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mdlawnguy
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Posted: 14 - January - 2010 at 05:14 | IP Logged Quote mdlawnguy

you may want to figure 12 volt system that way you have battery/solar backup in case your power goes out.. in md most of those outdoor furnces have been band.. too many neighbor hood complaints during the spring summer fall seasons.

try www.teksupply.com they have alot of farm items and prices are very reasonable spray foam, pex tubing boilers etc.. just got new catalog tuesday.. lost of wish list items..

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bearscamp
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Posted: 14 - January - 2010 at 06:10 | IP Logged Quote bearscamp

What if you could find to old compressor tanks, weld one inside the other. I would think this would work as long as there is a considerable size difference between the two.

Another thought, I remember a old timer showing me a trick back when I first started welding. I had built a gas tank for my go-cart, well the seems didnt pass a pressure test, so he took the oxy\actly torch and brazed over my welds, never had another problem with leaks.

If the furnace is going to be below the level of the house, then a thermo syphon would work fine using the stainless coils insid ethe firebox as long as the storage tank inside the house was not more ten feet away and elvelated above the furnace. This is a problem with mine, my tank doesnt produce a full 40 gallons due to lack of evaltion. I plan on fixing that problem later.

well just some thoughts, from Bearscamp

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Incognito
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Posted: 14 - January - 2010 at 07:03 | IP Logged Quote Incognito

When you build a boiler that encases the fire in a metal chamber that is then encased in a larger water tank, all you're doing is guaranteeing that you'll be creating a smoldering fire because the walls will never get much hotter than ~212F. The fire needs to burn as hot as possible to be efficient; if it's smoking you're wasting wood gas (fuel).

Take a look at the newer Central Boiler designs:
http://www.centralboiler.com/e-classic.html
And even better:
http://www.woodboilers.com/product-photos.aspx?product=50

For a homemade construction I'd start with a typical two-barrel furnace design and put my coils in the second barrel.
  
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drill-bender
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Posted: 14 - January - 2010 at 12:39 | IP Logged Quote drill-bender

Thanks all,
I checked out all the links, lots of real good information.  If I win the lottery I buy one of those fancy furnaces, very impressive.  I found the URL for the spray foam company and called their tech people.
The foam is good up to 240 degrees F so that should work for a lot of the insulation including the underground  pipes.  Speaking of neighbors complaints all my neighbors burn wood and I get plenty of smoke.  Actually I like the smell of wood smoke so it does not bother me when I'm outside.
I have been reading up on wood gas generation and can see that two chambers with the coils in the second chamber could be the most efficient.  Maybe two chambers, with high temp ceramic insulation and about three of the stainless coils would be the way to go??  So many choices to make. I see that a lot of the wood gas generators use a downdraft system.  It is kind of neat to see those wood gas system on YouTube running a generator and charging batteries off of wood smoke.  I wonder if anyone ever ran a water cooled engine using wood  gas generating power and heating water at the same time??  Don't think I will try that maybe in my next lifetime.
Bob B.

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Maurice
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Posted: 14 - January - 2010 at 15:49 | IP Logged Quote Maurice

"I wonder if anyone ever ran a water cooled engine using wood  gas generating power and heating water at the same time??" 

Mother Earth News did a truck, (I got all the OLD copies) since a large percentage of energy in an internal cumbustion engine goes as waste heat, you would have a GREAT idea.

Another efficient burn idea I was looking at is "rocket" stoves.  Do a google on that or "tin can stove"  I saw one page that had scaled it up.



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bearscamp
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Posted: 15 - January - 2010 at 04:56 | IP Logged Quote bearscamp

A friend of mine heats his shop and produces electricity at the same time with a one lunger lister diesel. He has all the coolnat running through regular boiler radiators and a small modine heater. The electrical is produced by over speeding a induction motor and turns his meter backwards. He says it uses the same amount of kerosene as his furnace does to heat the garage. I wish I could do it on wood gas and heat this place at the same time make juice. From Bearscamp
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drill-bender
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Posted: 15 - January - 2010 at 12:53 | IP Logged Quote drill-bender

Thanks again Maurice and Bearscamp,
I knew I could not claim the idea of generating heat and power with wood gas as original.  I have seen it before.  In fact there is a YOUTUBE of a Lister engine generating power and heat on veggie oil.  I believe the small one lunger weights about 700 pounds.  I did try and find one a while back and decided the freight alone would be more than I could afford.  They are now made in India and the importer is in Washington State.  I read somewhere that there are Lister engines with 100,000 hours on them.
Don't think we have anything like that at Sears.   I wonder if something like a Modal A Ford engine would be OK?  There is a lot of them around and you can still get parts.
Bob bB

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Maurice
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Posted: 17 - January - 2010 at 10:51 | IP Logged Quote Maurice

Farm Show has featured Lister and "listeroid" dealers, I wasn't interested enough at the time to memorize prices.  I got about 5 years worth of back issues.  Farm Show webiste allows searching and list of articles but won't show articles, so If you are interested I can scan/send.  Some of MBN'ers have the cd version of Farm Show.

You probably already know this, but as I remember it, the story is that the Lister was made in England and some used in India.  Technology was simple enough that India started copy-ing them.

And going thru Farm Show looking for tractor repower ideas (replacing a tractor engine with anything other than OEM for that model) I saw an article on a wood-gas car.

Keep thinking and doing!  I believe innovation on these ideas come from backyard mechanics, not the big corporate "can't do that because we'll get sued, won't make money, can't, can't, can't...



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drill-bender
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Posted: 18 - January - 2010 at 06:59 | IP Logged Quote drill-bender


[
QUOTE=Maurice]

Another efficient burn idea I was looking at is "rocket" stoves.  Do a google on that or "tin can stove"  I saw one page that had scaled it up.

Farm Show has featured Lister and "listeroid" dealers, I wasn't interested enough at the time to memorize prices.  I got about 5 years worth of back issues.  Farm Show webiste allows searching and list of articles but won't show articles, so If you are interested I can scan/send.  Some of MBN'ers have the cd version of Farm Show.

You probably already know this, but as I remember it, the story is that the Lister was made in England and some used in India.  Technology was simple enough that India started copy-ing them.

And going thru Farm Show looking for tractor repower ideas (replacing a tractor engine with anything other than OEM for that model) I saw an article on a wood-gas car.

Keep thinking and doing!  I believe innovation on these ideas come from backyard mechanics, not the big corporate "can't do that because we'll get sued, won't make money, can't, can't, can't...

[/QUOTE]

Again all good information.  First I spent some time looking for scaled up rocket stoves and did not find them.  Also what kind of system would you use to stoke it?  Maybe auger wood chips in and ash out? 

I wasted a lot of time looking at Lister engines on Youtube they are neat.  Maybe not Bonneville Salt Flats neat, but generate you own power neat.

I have not seen the Farm Show Magazine before I think I will take their sample copy offer.

BTW I did see a GM V6 engine replace a 2 cyl John Deere engine.  I liked the Ford V8 flathead conversion for the 8N Ford Tractor.  Then again I really like the sound of the old flat head with dual glass packs.  OK now you know that I'm old.

It sure seems that most inovative ideas come from backyard mechanics.  After working in manufacturing for a number of years I came up with three rules why a company will change a product.  One, competition requires a change.  Two, the new way is cheaper.  Three the law forces them to change. Maybe we can also say they will change because they lost a lawsuit too.
I have another rule.  The cost accountent always wins.  Lets say engineering wants to improve the exhaust valve in a certain engine.  The cost account says it will oost 15 cents more per engine and we will lose $200,000 in parts sales per year if we improve the valve.  Guess which way management will go?

Thanks,
Bob B.



Edited by drill-bender on 18 - January - 2010 at 07:02
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drill-bender
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 06:11 | IP Logged Quote drill-bender

I'm Back....
OK since my last post I have (surprise) more questions.  Given that I have zero experience with boilers and I have been reading.
I found the claim that the "condensing boiler is the most efficient
??
As I understand it would have three stages.
Stage one would be primary combustion maybe a "rocket stove" here.
Stage two would be secondary combustion where any unburnt  flu gas from stage one would be burnt also water tubes would be here.
Stage three is the condensing stage where additional heat is extracted by cooling the expelled gases below the condensing point of the contained moisture.  Because the condensate is corrosive to metal this stage would be a PVC pipe or some material that can survive in that environment and allow for water cooling to capture the heat.
Since there would not be a much convection the stove would have to have a forced draft.
I have seen that some home furnaces now use PVC pipe as a flu so it can work.
Now my question would such an approach even be practical for home heating or is it just too far out to consider?
Thanks in advance,
Bob B.

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thaumaturge
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 07:10 | IP Logged Quote thaumaturge

Quote: drill-bender


Now my question would such an approach even be practical for home heating or is it just too far out to consider?



If you are looking for a wood or even coal fed heating system, I'd look further at what are now reffered to as "European Masonry Furnaces".
I've been doing quite a bit of research myself on alternative home heating methods lately. I've got a nice little 5 acre hunk of silt and sagebrush located just far enough away from the warm part of southern Utah for cheap heat to be of serious interest. I'm also 100% off the grid. No natural gas lines in the area and an absurd quote of $14,000 just to run a power line from accross the dirt road onto my property (that $14,000 then NOT applying to my monthly power bill.) 

What my own research discovered is that, while the outdoor hot water heaters used in many northeastern US states are certainly better than "some" alternatives, the very best efficiency in the world stems back to systems developed a long time ago in some VERY cold places like Siberia or Finland. Which led me to the mentioned European furnaces. 
A typical wood burning stove is probably down around less than 30% efficient, with most the produced heat potential going right up the flue. Wheras by contrast the masonry furnaces hover around 87% efficient. With a mandatory 10% required for unpowered flue draft, tha's within 3% of absolute optimum. You can also incorporate hot water systems into them as well if you'd feel inclined. But honest reports of stoking a small fire at most twice a day sounds much more appealing to me than sending all that heat up a chimney.  At least check them out.

As to the other systems being practicle, well, experimenting is fun, but relying on an unproven design to keep you and your family warm in the winter is something else entirely. At minimum you should have some fallback system. For myself, while I fully intend to be building one of the european style heaters, I also just bought two very nice little wood burning stoves to carry my heating needs over until I've got the other system built and debugged.
Just my $0.02
Doc



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Maurice
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 08:21 | IP Logged Quote Maurice

Doc, I like the stone mass fireplace ideas too.  For some of us, we already have the house not designed for it.  I wish you very well in your plans!  So I'll try to answer Bob.  He may invent/build just what I need!

Bob B., I may not be reading your post close enough, I may see an error in design...  You mention a pvc condensing stage.  The regular flue temps from average furnaces is 350* or more.  Fossil fuels can create water/steam as they burn, and a wood fire burns the wood and steams off any moisture in the wood.  burning greener wood creates even more steam.  As you know, steam condenses at 212*  PVC can't handle that much heat.

So your heat exchanger to condense the steam to extract more heat might be best in stainless steel.  Are there other materials that can handle the corrosiveness and heat?

The storebought condensing furnaces use pvc at the outlet of the furnace because the temps are down toward 150*.

Otherwise, keep designing and planning, I think it could work, and when I get my projects caught up, I plan to do very similar to what you are!



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thaumaturge
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 09:19 | IP Logged Quote thaumaturge

Quote: Maurice

Doc, I like the stone mass fireplace ideas too.  For some of us, we already have the house not designed for it.  I wish you very well in your plans!  So I'll try to answer Bob.  He may invent/build just what I need!



Didn't mean to infer it wasn't doable. But for my limeted buget I'm looking at sucking every erg of energy out of whatever system(s) I end up using. Even if you have a pre-existing dwelling, the masonry oven system would still lend itself well to water heat conversion. Locally, I've got access to cheap fire brick. The refractory brick place that used to support Geneva steel (while it stil existed) is now stuck with swveral hundred thousand specialty foundry bricks that they're looking to offload for a buck a piece or less. The largest are these honeycomb models that would serve well for a folded path flue gas heat extraction system.

The basis of the masonry systems is to contain the gasses and prolong the burning long enough to extract the most amount of heat from burning. The internal bun temps can reach as high as 1900 degrees. Internal water jacket extraction cools the very gasses that you are seeking to completely burn. But instead of using an internal water jacket that must be expensive non-corrosive stainless steel and which by nature thwart the burning process. Instead you can sheath the outside of an internal burn passage with far cheaper material and still not lose a single erg of potential energy in the process. What you would of course lose is quick heat and quick response time. But that can be supplimented.

One such method I've been looking at to do so is using a small displacement water jacketed fuel injected vehicle engine. I just missed out on picking up a CBR600RR motorcycle engine that would have been perfect. I was going to pipe the coolant inside and use the exhaust gasses to heat my holding tanks from the outside as the power takeoff directly drove a generator. At the moment I'm back looking for small Geo Metro engines (3 cylinder 1 liter, fuel injected). In a pinch though, I've already got a still functional Honda CRX that I no longer drive that I would gladly sacrifice to the gods of heat. The idea being that such a system could idle all night on just a gallon or so of petrol. But even using such a system, there is no reason not to suck every erg of heat or mechanicle energy from it in the process.

But back to the masonry furnaces, the basic design, as stated,  has a folded path internal combustion chamber surrounded on the outside by a much larger thermal mass. But my entire point is that outside thermal mass may be constructed of virtually anything that will direct the heat to where it's needed. That can be standard masonry for direct radiation, or a water jacket for remote radiation, itself insulated on the ouside to keep the heat where it's needed. So a firebrick or castable refoundry cement heart surrounded almost completely by a water jacket surrounded itself by either glass or foam insulation to keep it all on the inside.
Doc  



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Maurice
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 09:39 | IP Logged Quote Maurice

Thanks Doc!  I gots a lot more to study!  The plans I bought but haven't done anything with was to build a masonry burn chamber but somehow have the exhaust go up, out to a 2nd chamber where he used some A/C condenser coils with water in them, and somehow the exhaust re-entered the bottom of the burn chamber to be re-burned, and it had a flue at the back of the 2nd chamber.  It looked like either an endless loop or a bypass of the 2nd chamber...  The reason I did buy the plans w/o a good description was to explore the idea of a masonry burn chamber but capturing the heat with water.



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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 10:37 | IP Logged Quote thaumaturge

Yeah, I'd study on... As I mentioned burn temps can reach 1900 degrees F even in second chamber. Doesn't sound like an A/C radiator would last long in such an environment. Myself I'm looking at a combo of the honeycomb bricks combined with some castable refractory cement to implement a multi-folded path exit to a more conventional flue. What most appeals is reports that the masonry furnaces are virtually smoke free after about a half hour or so. Don't want to piss off the only neighbor within 500 yards.
Another supliment I was considering was sheets of black 10mm channel plastic cardboard thats relatively cheap as the basis of a solar panel. Located the only manufacturer of glue that will bond to both PVC and ... I think it was ethylene that was used on the couregated sheets.
Basically got this upcoming summer to get whatever I do, done.
Doc


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drill-bender
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 15:22 | IP Logged Quote drill-bender

Thanks Doc and Maurice,
If you are starting with a clean piece of paper IMHO the stone mass stoves have a lot going for them.
In my case have a wood stove inside the dwelling is not an option.  My dear wife has serious breathing problems and we have a tank of LOX in our bedroom.  

Good thought on the melting point of PVC.  What I was reading indicated that the PVC must be water cooled at a temperature below boiling point. The input water temp should be around 100 degrees a pumped through the heat exchange.  Sort of like heating water in a paper cup.  As long as the water is circulating through the PVC is OK.  Again this is not from my personal experience.  I hope to build this in stages anyway.

Bob B.
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f350ca
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 17:23 | IP Logged Quote f350ca

To get a clean/efficient burn in a boiler the trick is to isolate the
fire from the cold water jacketed surfaces. If the flame is in
contact with the water jacket the combustion temperature can't get
high enough for complete combustion and you will get smoke and
low efficiencies with unburn't material going up the flue.
I bought one of these 4 years
ago.http://www.alternateheatingsystems.com/woodGasification. ht
ml
You can read their hype but basically you get partial combustion in
the firebox, as you do with any of the outdoor wood disposal units.
The firebox is always coated with a HEAVY layer of creosote, this
eventually falls off and burns again. In this unit the fire sits on
refractory, then the flames are drawn down into a secondary
refractory burn chamber where temperatures reach 1900 f. If you
look down through the grate its burning pure white down there. The
gases make two passes through this then go out to the water
tubes. By the time the gases reach the cold water jacket there is
nothing left but hot gases and you only get a light layer of ash on
the walls. This unit drops the exhaust gases to about 300 f at the
exit. The paint is still on the single wall steel pipe that exits the
unit. Any lower and you'll get too much condensation in the flue, I
get some in the ash bin in real cold weather.
As for smoke you get a couple of minutes when it first fires up
then just heat waves off the stack with no visible smoke.
Great design if you think you could copy it.
I heat the house and shop all winter with about 15 face cords, not
quite a truck load of logs. Will get a free winter next year.

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Maurice
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Posted: 06 - February - 2010 at 18:27 | IP Logged Quote Maurice

Another thing I meant to add is that pvc might not be efficient at transferring heat to the water...

Greg, I've read on Hearth.com that a couple of guys have copied a high efficient one like you describe.  But they had one avaible to copy.

I tried to copy/paste your link, and it looks ok, but not linking.

Been wondering how to get those two passes thru the chambers.

Without stealing copywrited stuff, I think it should be possible to home-design a something!  What if one could figure out that hot burn chamber, and firebrick could separate the burn from the heat exchanger (HX).  Maybe even build the burn chamber with masonry, and maybe embed the HX in the masonry like Doc says.  Of course the masonry (if outdoors) should be heavily insulated. 

One idea I'm toying with that masonry burn chamber to keep the fire hot and avoid steel costs+welding, but set a homemade HX on top.  Pass the flue gases multiple thru the HX, but my twist would be to plan on cooling the flue gas below condensing steam temp buy using stainless and condensate drain channels.  Would have to use a draft fan. 



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drill-bender
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Posted: 07 - February - 2010 at 06:50 | IP Logged Quote drill-bender

I got to the page by going to the main page first
http://www.alternateheatingsystems.com and then clicking on woodgasification.
That is a very sophisticated furnace,  I'm sure it is worth the price, but it is waaay out of my price range.

Something that might be worth considering instead of fire brick is industrial refractory fiber.  Do a google on "refractory wool" and you will find a lot of information.  It is kind of expensive, but not much is needed.  I got several square feet of it by dumpster diving.
bob b.



Edited by drill-bender on 08 - February - 2010 at 03:49
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Posted: 07 - February - 2010 at 20:03 | IP Logged Quote f350ca

Sorry about that link try.
http://www.alternateheatingsystems.com
Go to the gasification section.

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Mechanical Engineers build weapons, Civil Engineers build targets.
Greg
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